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Surfing at 39

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Surfing at 39

(photo credit: Jeff Divine)  

Tomer's goal was to surf before he was 40. He had talked about it for so long, and for one reason or another - timing, injuries, fear? - he had yet to surf. We had been to the beaches of Oregon, California south and north, Florida, Mexico, Sicily, Bolonia, even Hawaii! Yet nada, no surf. (He did body-surf with abandon along the coast of Cannon Beach in Oregon, like some crazy seal, surrounded by surfers in 4/3 mm wetsuits.) 

But finally, he got his chance. The layover between São Miguel and our island of Santa Maria is long. It can be 6 hours or even 9, depending on where you're connecting from. But the good news is that it's only 10 min to the beaches of São Miguel and the island has some great surf. So 2 hours before his flight was due to depart to Santa Maria, Tomer caught his first wave - taking a crash course with Ricardo, a chill instructor at a local surf school.

When we met Tomer at the airport, he was smiling ear to ear, his t-shirt still wet and cap too. It was one of those perma-smiles, lasting for a good few days. And Tomer now surfs a few days a week here in Santa Maria...though I think he still needs a lesson or two :) Surfs up!

Disclaimer - This is not Tomer...yet

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  • Sep 15, 2020

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