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Surfing at 39 PART II

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Surfing at 39 PART II

Today we went surfing at our local spot. It's winter here, but on a good day the waves are pretty surf-able. 

We arrived at the cove, and pretty much like always, it was just us - my buddy and I. The waves were about 3-4mt, beautiful and strong. We put on our wetsuits near the truck, talking about this and that, watching the waves roll beneath us. The sun was behind, the day was clear (it had been foggy for about 3 days). We hurried on down to the beach, down the 40 stone steps barefoot. We hit the sand and stretched as fast as possible, then leapt into the cold water. 

We surfed some tough beach breaks for about an hour, then took a break, thought about going on to the next cove (for some smaller waves) and looked up to find a giant of a rainbow cutting across the horizon, ending in a cloud on one end and beautiful cliff at the other. A small fishing boat swayed beneath. I looked at my buddy and he at me, we both had that perma-smile thing going...

I kept thinking, what a gift - to be able to do something you've always wanted to do. I thought of the Japanese saying, "the best time to plant a tree is yesterday. The second best time to plant a tree is today". The same can be said of surfing, "the best time to start surfing was yesterday. The second best time is now." 

I'll be 40 any day now, so this is likely the last of surfing at 39. Next time I'll post it will be from over the hill...i wonder what the other side is like? Perhaps I'll be able to say, I've finally caught a left.  :  )

Namaste from the Middle of Nowhere! 

 

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